i will dispense this advice...

So some of you might remember that song when Baz Luhrmann gives the class of 1999 (my class) his best advice. You know: "If I could offer you only one tip for the future, sunscreen would be it." Click here for the lyrics (go find "Everybody's Free (To Wear Sunscreen) online if you've forgotten it or never heard it - it's pretty fun).

So I was thinking about that song for some reason, and started thinking about the advice I'd give if someone I knew were coming to Tokyo tomorrow. So I started writing it down. And I decided to post it, not only for the benefit of hypothetical future travelers, but because as I jotted these things down, I realized that I'd really done it. I conquered Tokyo, and even more so, I conquered my fear.

It isn't a secret that I was pretty apprehensive about this whole thing. But it's been a wonderful experience, and it's made me more brave, more grateful, and more sure of the important things. So here's my advice.

___

"I could offer you only one tip for the future, sunscreen would be it. The long-term benefits of sunscreen have been proven by scientists, whereas the rest of my advice has no basis more reliable than my own meandering experience. I will dispense this advice now..."

1. Pack an umbrella. Make sure it's small and slim to fit in your tourist bag (bring one of those too - just accept that you're a foreigner, and tote the necessities - Kleenex, antibacterial, camera, umbrella - you'll thank me later). The umbrella will save at least one day. And possibly your marriage.

2. If you see a Mister Donut, go in. Order an Almond de Pan (or four). They're really different, and it might take a bite or two, but they're delicious. Also, they have purchase points, so if you ask for a card (it might take some pointing and miming) - you can accrue points for cool prizes for all the doughnuts you consume. And it really is great incentive to keep consuming when all is said and done.

3. If you see a Krispy Kreme, go in. You'll have to wait in line here (probably about 30 minutes), but the free doughnut that they literally pull off the doughnut conveyor belt and place into your hands is worth it. And so will the dozen or two doughnuts you are then conned into buying as you stand in line thinking about how amazing it was when that free doughnut melted on your tongue.

4. Do visit the convenience stores. There's always a row of pastries - try lots of them. The Swiss Roll is always a winner. And the small bread balls with chocolate filling are surprisingly delicious. Don't get the one that looks like a chocolate chip sweet roll - it has mayo in it. And avoid the red bean paste - it's a sweet bean, and it's not that bad, but our American tongues just don't prefer it. And don't forget to buy bread - the six slice loaf is my preferred thickness of bread (they come in 8, 6, or 4 slices). Do buy lots of bottled drinks - they're too good to ignore and too easy to pass up with a vending machine always in view. Try Calpis, Pocari Sweat, Mitsuya Cider, C.C. Lemon, and Lemon Vitamin Water.

5. Don't drink or eat the strange green drinks or foods. I don't mean salad or veggies or the things we're used to. But liquid, ice cream, cookies - they'll look really good, probably like mint chocolate. But it's green tea. They're huge on the green tea - half of the vending machine is green tea. You can ask for water at restaurants, but they tend to forget. Get used to drinking after dinner. :)

6. If you're crunched for time, try and fit in these tourist destinations:
- The Imperial Palace: Especially if you enjoy running or walking, it's a great three mile loop. But even more, it's a beautiful, somehow reassuring, plot of land. You can feel history seeping out its walls and into your skin. Be sure to visit the East Gardens - it's the portion of the inner Palace that you can actually visit. But take note - it's only open Tuesday through Thursday. Be sure to take your camera.
- Meiji Shrine: If you know what you're looking for, you can actually find a shrine within minutes of almost any location. But before they all start to look the same, visit my favorite. It's grand, beautiful, and peaceful, and is missing the commercial facade that some of the shrines have taken on.
- Nikko: If you have time for a day trip, head to Nikko. It's about two hours away by train, but it is absolutely worth it. It's unlike any other scenery you'll see in Tokyo. You get to ride through Japan's rice field country and end in what feels like a mountain resort, without the resort part. It's an old, quaint, little town with what have been deemed the most "elaborate" (some say gaudy) shrines in Japan built into the mountain, surrounded by lush and deep forest. It's a breath of fresh mountain air.
-Takeshita Dori: Takeshita is a great place for some affordable Tokyo shopping. (Any department store will be beyond any Nordstrom price tag you've ever seen.) Takeshita is home to the Harajuku kids and tourists a plenty. You can find super cute clothes, shoes and jewelry (as well as not so super cute, but fun to laugh at), and some excellent Japanenglish shirts. There's also a four story dollar store here (called Daiso) that is an experience all by itself.
- Kyoto, Nara, Hiroshima, Nagoya: We did this in 3.5 days, but with the convenient speed of Japan's Shinkansen (bullet train), it is well worth it. (Be sure to order a Japan Rail Pass before you come to Japan - it's a train pass that's good for one week and will save you literally hundreds of dollars if you do traveling like this.)

7. Do bring decent shoes. If you're walking miles every day with a couple pieces of cardboard strapped to your feet, you're going to start feeling it (believe me). Speaking of walking - do lots of it if you have time. Sometimes I'd have a general destination, but I'd just wander for a while until I found it. There are so many things to see in this beautiful country, and doing it by foot is just about the right speed.

8. Do try using a squatter. Why? It'll build character and extremely good quad strength. For an adventure, use one on a moving train. Enjoy the smell. And don't pay attention to your shoes sticking to the floor.

9. Do enjoy a vending machine dinner, particularly curry with pork cutlet (I bet if you don't like pork [like me] you'll like this pork). It's seriously so handy, and it's a kick in the pants. And don't be afraid to go to McDonald's at least once - I wouldn't overdo it, but it really is so yummy and different than the States. And they're really used to foreigners - they're flipping the Japanese menu over to the English side before you can blink. I'm told the shrimpburger is delicious (for real), but I just really love the cheeseburger. Oh, and they also have a secret drug in their Grape Fanta. Try it.

10. Don't be afraid to make a fool of yourself. If you have a question, ask. They're almost always more than happy to help (there are some cranky pants, but for the most part), and the good news is that you'll never see these people again, so be as foolish as you want. Also, these are the people who are making total fools of themselves every morning during rush hour, cramming their smelly bodies into the crevice of your arm pit, just so they don't have to wait for the next train. We all have our moments.

So enjoy yours. :)